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La Fonda Restaurant

Between Ensenada and Rosarito Mexico

 

 view

 

August 2007

 

Nothing says Baja like the hordes of poor white Norte Americanos all over the place.  There's something creepy about the notion that Baja gets the Gringos who were too poor to make it in the US and so go down there to live some kind of romantic fantasy that all too often than not gets twisted and turned into some other kind of thing.

 

I'm not dissing on poor people, just the affectation of wealth by poor people, which is one of the worst things in the world, plus it's depressing, the kind of people who try to be another class than they are just because they are richer than the people in Mexico so they can talk down to someone finally.

 

I'm not dissing on Mexico or white people either but you know what I’m talking about anyway.  It's the affectation.  The interactioning that I have seen and witnessed by my country’s brethren firsthand.

 view

nice view from the table

I like Mexico, apart from the corrupt policemen who stole $35 from my pocket one dark evening somewhere in Tijuana.  But I like it ok, I mean it's got a beautiful countryside and one of the best highways overlooking the Pacific that I've ever seen, about 10,000 times better than anything I've seen in California, USA. 

 

Plus in Mexico people actually speak to you and you can speak to them without buying something.  It's weird.

 

But I have to say I haven't had great food in Mexico yet, especially Mexican food, which, as a gringo, maybe I haven't plumbed the depths of yet but I am a big fan of truck tacos and al pastor but really have only had gristle and fat in Mexico and have had better in LA and SD.  I digress.

 interior

interior of la fonda restaurant

The restaurant La Fonda overlooks a beautiful stretch of beach around the 65th KM on the Highway 1D to Ensenada in Mexico.  It is somewhat of an iconic place and even has several highway signs telling you where it is.  It's also a Spa now and a longtime motel/hotel with several large rooms overlooking the Pacific.  It would be a nice place to chill for a few days I think because of the view, the isolation from party-villes in Rosarito, and the great beach below.  But I also like walking around Ensenada and seeing all the stuff too.

 

La Fonda used to be owned by some guy that everyone loved and people would rave about his food and his conversation and everything.  People on that discussion board about food have been complaining that since the new owners took over the food has gone downhill so I oiled up my car, packed in some out of towners, and promptly got lost in some Tijuana shantytown looking for the 1D highway.

waves

nice view on a nice day

Eventually we found it and kept driving South.  Our Moon Handbook incorrectly said that the restaurant was around the 59th KM which is wrong by about 10km, but they got the exit right:  La Mision exit after the exit to Puerto Nuevo.  It's easy to find as you pull off and turn left, the restaurant/spa/hotel is almost the only thing around.

 margarita

nice margarita friend

The restaurant had several unoccupied tables overlooking the ocean so we grabbed one and sat down.  The tablecloth had several burn holes in it but otherwise the place was welcoming.  The waiter brought us chips and salsa (pico de gallo type) and I ordered a margarita.  The chips were recently made fresh and were somewhat more doughy than crunchy but I liked them, the salsa was just ok, it seemed a bit old and some of the tomatoes were green and it was watery and bland.

 chicken

friendly cock

The waiter brought the menu which was a handwritten one in English on a vertical chalkboard in cursive.  They had several seafood options and lamb shanks and some kind of steak.  I opted for the Mexican combo plate which had a cheese enchilada, beef taco and a chile relleno and rice & beans.

 menu

great lunch menu

The place was/is a nice place to chill out and watch the waves and they make a strong and tasty margarita.  There was a gringo couple at the next table who lived nearby and they kept telling the strolling mariachi that they wanted his son (a boy about 5-6 years old who sang/screamed with his dad at each table) to come to their house to learn English. 

After the mariachi kid stopped singing a Mexican guy played an electric guitar while a gringo in a wheelchair who was in his 70's was singing hits like "Blueberry Hill" and others on a microphone.

Before our food came they gave us each a small cup of black beans, which were the highlight of the meal, they weren't like your typical cup of black beans with their bland watery tasteless nothingness, but rather they were salty, spicy black beans with onions and a bit of cilantro, lime juice I think, and were spiced great.  It was like eating a nice bowl of hearty soup.

 beans

the magical fruit

Unfortunately that was the only interesting part of the meal.  My dish came.  The refried beans were old and tasted like cigarette smoke somehow, the rice was old, hardish and somewhat cold, the cheese enchilada was bland and the cheese inside wasn't melted at all, the enchilada sauce wasn't that great either, too bitter somehow.  The beef taco had shredded beef that was the blandest driest meat I've ever eaten, and the chile relleno, while the only thing on my plate with any taste, was a bit too watery and squishy for me.

combo

nice looking but tasteless combo plate

 

On the way to the bathroom I passed by a countertop near the kitchen piled with dirty dishes and flies.

taco

beef taco

I think I would give this place a pass next time for its food, unless I wanted to chill out with a margarita.

beans

I have not found tacos El Fenix in Ensenada yet but am still looking.

 

Aye yi yi Mexico.  Donde eres?

con amor,

George Caye

 

La Fonda (recommended for 1 view, 4 margaritas, 1 cup of black beans)

 

http://www.lafondamexico.com/

 

(website doesn’t mention the restaurant for some reason)

 

About 45 mins from Tijuana on the 1D Highway

 

Phone from States    011-52-646-1550307
E-mail     Reservations@LaFondaBaja.com
Fax:  011-52-646-1555390


 
 

 

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